One of the finest restaurants in Northeast Ohio is located in a most unlikely setting  — inside a former Red Barn Restaurant  surrounded by insurance offices, a funeral parlor and a spa on North Court Street.

But chef and owner, John Kolar, has wrought some magic here. One enters his austerely elegant cocoon with its terra cotta walls hung with modern art, and dim, romantic  lighting — and it feels like New York , or maybe Ibiza. But it is the food that people drive long distances to savor — the  “contemporary cuisine with worldly influences”.

Kolar is a worldly individual himself.  A graduate of the famed Culinary Institute of America, he trained with New York City uber-chef Jean George Vongerichten, then worked for such highly rated area restaurants as Fire on the east side of Cleveland and the Three Birds in Lakewood.

Being a Hinckley native, however, Kolar eventually returned home to Medina County to practice his craft — or perhaps art might be a more appropriate term.  (For a look at the menu, go to www.thymetherestaurant.com.)

On Thursday, a group of women gathered at Thyme at lunchtime to bid farewell to a book club member who is moving back to Michigan. Here are some of the wonderful things they ate.Beth and Marilyn thoroughly enjoyed the salmon wrap. It is not just the food that is exceptional here — so is the presentation.

The lobster quesadilla was sinfully rich, but Gloria decided, “Why not? It’s a special occasion.  After all, how many times does Marge move to Michigan?”

Virginia loved the Brie and Portabello Mushroom Pizza, but had to take half of it home.

Thyme the Restaurant: 716 North Court Street, Medina, Ohio, (330) 764-4114.